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Matcha Waffles

Oh, green food. The sign of health.

At least that’s what I told myself as I basked in the glory of these delicious matcha, or green tea, waffles. Sure there’s a ~~bit~~ lot of sugar hiding in those crannies, but green tea is ridiculously healthy.

Green tea is what other health foods might call an overachiever. It’s considered a cancer-fighting, age-defying, heart-disease-battling cure-all, a star among the lentils and açaì berries. But matcha, a powdered version, makes even the other green teas look lazy. It’s the healthiest of them all—by a landslide.

Bon Appetit

The subtle hint of green tea mixed with maple syrup and strawberries was a breakfast delight. And that’s not all: they’re green! Green waffles! That’s a conversation piece if ever I battered and fried one. They would make a terrific centerpiece to a spring brunch table.

The recipe I used called for culinary grade matcha tea. This is supposed to be less expensive but still delicious. I honestly have no idea what type I used, because I quickly bought it before I boarded my plane in the airport in Japan. (Yikes.) But, it worked so well for these waffles, so whatever I paid for it was worth it.

Make a beautiful batch this weekend! And if you haven’t been getting enough greens in your diet, I am pretty sure this counts! (Not a dietitian.)

Click here to print recipe!

Recipe adapted from: Oh, How Civilized

Find other breakfast/brunch recipes here:

Loaded Breakfast Fries

Savory French Toast

Mushroom & Egg Tart

Please visit soon! Likes and follows and shares are loved!

Ihwa | mural village

Published by crystal @unepeach

Ihwa Village is a controversial excursion to write a blog post about. There is currently a cold war playing out between selfie hungry visitors and those who call the area home. Obviously, as a human being, you want to side with the inhabitants. But, as someone who loves to look at street art and loves to put money into Korean crafts and stores, you can also see well meaning visitors’ sides.

The issue arises again and again in Korea and makes me wonder: Can’t we tourists just stop being assh*les all the time?

So What’s the Controversy?

Imagine living in a sleepy little village for most of your life. It’s underdeveloped and poor, but it’s home. One day a group of well meaning individuals decide to paint some colorful street art on the walls surrounding your neighborhood. It’s cute, sure, you might even like the whimsy at first. It’s supposed to bring tourism and money to your neck of the woods. Everything sounds great.

And then, bam! Your village in overrun with loud mouth camera hogs desperate to get the same shot that they’ve already seen online. They’re noisy. They leave trash. They take pictures of you like you’re a zebra at the zoo. Might bug you a little, right?

Urban beautification and public art area not always a good things for everyone. Last year, five residents, who probably hadn’t had a good night’s sleep in a long time due to tourists, decided to take matters into their own hands. They took gray paint and covered up several large murals, including the iconic daisy stairs:

From Korea Joongang Daily

One of the men apparently lived right next to the stairs. And, I get it, the fury had built up for a long time. They complained of tourists coming at all hours of the night, yelling, and being general deviants.

So what can be done? How can both residents and tourists enjoy this type of public art and the possible benefits?

In my opinion, I fully believe we can all enjoy this style of art but it would take two separate things: government intervention and tourists using their manners. Most people can be taught or reminded to use their manners and visit these areas with respect. Don’t throw trash on the ground, don’t yell, wait patiently in line to take a photo and purchase items from the area to support the businesses. All of this would happen with every tourist in a dream world, but let’s face it, some people are just assh*les. Not everyone will ever treat tourist areas with respect because they don’t respect anything.

That’s where government intervention comes in.

Set up laws that allow tourism only during certain hours. If someone comes in after hours taking pics and yelling, call the police. Then, the police actually have to do something.
Put trashcans and recycle bins in areas of high tourist traffic, like Ihwa. And afterwards, fine people for throwing trash on the ground.
Paid security can keep an eye on people: telling them to clean up and be quiet and don’t take pictures of people without permission. It would create jobs in the area as well. Right now there are signs in place for these things, but who listens to a sign? A physical human being making an “x” with their arms would be a lot more potent.
What do you think? Do you have other ideas?

Korea is always promoting itself as a worthwhile tourist destination in Asia, and I know that it is. I love going to tourist places here, but Korea has to protect itself, its people and its tourists. How long will it be before residents in this area turn violent from police inadequacy and government indifference? Easy things can be done, and if done properly, everyone can be happy.

And in the meantime, please visit Ihwa with the understanding that this is area is home to the residents. Treat it like it’s your home too.

MMCA | what’s new in modern art

Published by crystal @unepeach

Love the art scene in Seoul? I’m with you. I like to prepare, research, gear up and eat well right before heading to a new exhibit at a museum or gallery hopping in this crazy cool city.

So when I headed out to see what was new at the MMCA in January, and I expected to be wowed. Just like the time I went before.

the day began

Being excitable, and more than a little hungry, I decided the first stop needed to be food. Luckily as I walked down Yulgok-ro, a wonderfully pushy ajumma summoned me into her mandu restaurant where I promptly ordered this beauty :

Oh, that’s nice.

Honestly, I didn’t have much choice. She was very persuasive. Next, I cut through the alleys to get to the MMCA from the back, where I met this beautiful view.

Gorgeous, but still so cold and uncomfortable.

I admit, sometimes at modern art museums, you can be thoroughly underwhelmed or even walk away uncomfortable and confused.

The first exhibit was a hipster spectacular about food called Activating the City: Urban Gastronomy. They had some information on farm to table and had a station to try food. But, there wasn’t much to it and there was not a lot of information in English.

Pass.

Next, was a set of exhibits by Korean artists under the Korea Artist Prize 2016. The award is described as the most prestigious art award in Korea. So I was certainly excited to see what was deemed best in Korea. Most of it was worth the excitement. But, some….well, you’ll see.

The first exhibit was by artist Kim Eull, seemed like a “found art” installation. And I mean a lot of “found art” pieces. Most of which were framed and arranged in a giant pattern of Saturn. It’s called Galaxy. And it was amazing.

It was so large, in fact, I did not know what I was looking at until I looked at the picture on my camera and recognized the pattern.

But as wonderful as the planet was, the artist went a step too far and also created an artist’s studio mini house with window views to witness Galaxy. It mimicked his thinking and creating space. …and it was weird in that “I’m an artist!” kind of way.

What is with modern artists and creepy, naked, dismembered doll parts ?

Just…what the hell is this?

This was a very interesting piece. It’s by Back Seung Woo and it’s called Betweenless. Each giant portrait was a blurred face. It was messed up in a good “I’m an artist” kind of way.

I really loved the next one. It’s by what I assume is an artist collective called, Mixrice. This room was full of art and photographs and stories about ancient trees around Korea that are in danger of being bulldozed or rehomed to make way for…probably Paris Baguettes. It had an excellent message of protecting nature and to stop tearing sh*t down. Listen up, Korea.

The next main exhibit was more craft than art called Craft Narrative: The Place, Prospect, Perspective. Not that craft pieces cannot be beautiful or inspire awe. However, do they belong in a modern art museum? I’m not sure. There were very cool kitchenware and gorgeous vases. There was a very relaxing video installation of a craftswoman Park MiOk weaving traditional mosi, a beautiful Korean fabric.

But then there was this hot mess.

I have no idea what happening here.

Gorgeous windows. Can I get these at home?

After quite a bit of disappointing art, I consoled myself with a cup of coffee in a quiet shop. I scrolled through my pictures and decided on rejecting half of them.

It was still so cold outside.

Thank you, friend.

So, the exhibits at the MMCA in January were underwhelming for me. Contemporary art is difficult to pigeonhole and categorize. It’s a vast and varied type of art and it won’t always make you feel good things.

What do you do? Give it some time and head back for a new exhibit! I’m looking forward to my next trip there this spring.

Look at what I saw last time PLUS other galleries in the area!

MMCA: Website

Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday : 10:00 am ~ 6:00 pm

Wednesday, Saturday : 10:00 am ~ 9:00 pm (18:00~21:00 : free)

Cost: 4,000 won

There are a few ways to get there. Check the map to figure out your best route!

Please visit soon! Likes and follows and shares are loved!

The Princess Temple | chuncheon

Published by crystal @unepeach

If you’ve spent any amount of time in Korea, you’ve seen your fair share of Buddhist temples. Sometimes it feels like you can’t throw an empty bottle of BB cream without hitting one. (Don’t throw bottles, folks. Recycle!) But, every so often, you get to see one that is just wonderful and unique enough that you feel like an innocent young girl seeing her first Korean temple.

Cheongpyeong-sa is one such temple for me.

I visited in possibly the hottest of summers I’ve lived through in Seoul. The air was thick with humidity, smog and just millions of people’s breath. It was the perfect time to escape to Chuncheon in Gangwon-do. The area is gorgeous and full of greenery. The temple sits at the basin of Obongsan Mountain. It was misty walking up to the entrance due to the heat and I began to fear that maybe I too would dissolve into sweaty mist.

But, in the luckiest of circumstances, I saw just what I needed: an older couple soaking their feet in the crisp, streaming water next to the trail. Thank you, brazen trailblazers! That was it. I was headed in. My friend Phil and I headed down to the stream and took off our shoes and socks and soaked those bad boys in the chilled water until our body temperatures were normalized. It was basically heaven. Heaven. After we cooled off, it was time to hike the rest of the way up absorbing the views of the trees, waterfalls and gardens.

And it wasn’t just about the water, although now that I’m thinking of it, that was a big part. I loved the temple itself. It has vast views of misty mountains and because it was too hot for huge crowds of people, it was quiet and serene. The way you imagine a temple should be. There were perfect orange flowers and so many lanterns. It was just what I needed to see at the top of that hike.

Cheongpyeong-sa is called the Princess Temple because of the folktale that accompanies it. The tale goes, a poor peasant fell in love with a princess. As these stories often go, he was killed and became a serpent. The snake then attached itself to the princess and, as charming as that sounds, she wasn’t feeling it. The princess traveled from temple to temple looking for help to get that clingy reptile to go away. (We’ve all been there, right?) Finally, in her desperation, she went to Cheongpyeong and, what?, the snake slithered away. In honor of this miracle, she had a 3 story pagoda built overlooking the waterfall.

Nice of her.

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Cheonpyeongsa Temple Chuncheon South Korea 003

The princess of folklore. Looks like she is quite enamored with that snake she is supposed to dislike.

I can’t begin to describe how good this felt. It was natural, beautiful air conditioning.

Read more about beautiful Chuncheon, the home of Dakgalbi!

Click on picture to view more of that fabulousness!

See more pictures:

Flickr

How to get there:

Across from Chuncheon Station, take Bus No. 11 or 12 to Soyang Dam Bus Stop.
From Soyang Dam Dock, take a ferry to Cheongpyeongsa Temple.
Cheongpyeongsa Temple is a 30min-walk from the dock.

Or…if I may. I don’t trust ferries in Korea after the horrible accident three years ago. So, you can get a cab right outside Chuncheon Station to drive you there. Personal preference.

Address: 810, Obongsan-gil, Buksan-myeon, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do
강원도 춘천시 북산면 오봉산길 810

Cost: 2,000 won

Website (Korean only ): Cheongpyeong-sa

Jalgachi | fish market

Published by crystal @unepeach

Do you feel that?

That’s that mean girl winter FINALLY getting the hell out of here. The sun is out and we only have a scant amount of time before the weather turns on us again here in Seoul and becomes an abhorrent shade of humidity and heat.

So let’s enjoy the spring! The best season in Korea.

And let’s break in the season with some raw fish!

Last year my friend, Phil and I headed down to the the southern tip of Korea, Busan. We headed straight to a spot for lunch at the Jalgachi Fish Market. Downstairs is a wonderland of fish and seafood…with a pungent smell and wetness just, everywhere. Upstairs is a restaurant where we parked ourselves for a giant raw lunch.

There were some definite good things: the steamed lobster, the flatfish, the abalone, the boiled potatoes, the kimchi. There were also some let downs: the raw lobster tail and the raw moving squid come to mind. Overall, I was happy with what was set down in front of us. I believe it is something everyone in Korea needs to try.

It’s a great Busan experience and a place that seems thoroughly Korean.

Look how happy she is!

the most important ladies at the market

I did not know this was coming, nor did I eat it.

It’s octopus that is still moving around.

Not cool. Not cool. My food needs to be thoroughly dead before entering my mouth.

steamed abalone

raw fish

raw lobster tail: saddest part of the meal

steamed lobster: best part of the meal

pulled this sucker out whole

when lobsters attack

Head on over if you are in sunny Busan! Come for the fish smell…stay for the fresh fish….don’t order the moving stuff.

Address: 52, Jagalchihaean-ro, Jung-gu, Busan
부산광역시 중구 자갈치해안로 52 (남포동4가)

To get there by subway: Jagalchi Station (Busan subway line 1), Exit 10., turn right onto Jagalchi 3(sam)-gil Street. Walk for 5min, then turn left to arrive at Jagalchi Market.

Website

Vegan Chocolate Cake | with pb granola

Published by crystal @unepeach

I’ve been going into the baking upside down world, you guys: vegan. I didn’t even really know you could make a cake without eggs. Like, I knew, but I didn’t know the logistics and was afraid to try and make a disappointingly gross cake.

But, I make a lot of kitchen mistakes so I thought, what the hell? I found an easy enough recipe that didn’t call for things I never used: flax seeds, almond flour, hazelnut flour…what even is that?

This cake is pure chocolate wonder and not for the faint of heart. The best part is that it’s made using ingredients you probably already have in the kitchen. It’s very moist and probably couldn’t handle a stiffer frosting, unless piped. So the ganache makes for a perfect addition. I had made a peanut butter, coconut chip and coconut oil granola a week before and used that for a crunch. If you are serving right away, you can add the granola. But, it will get soggy over time, so I don’t suggest adding it until right before it’s engorged on.

Click here to print out the recipe for Vegan Chocolate Cake

Recipe adapted from Krystal Howell Photography

Daytripping | Chinatown

Published by crystal @unepeach

The only official “Chinatown” in Korea is located in Incheon and takes a long, boring ride on the subway to get out there. It’s a full on tourist destination and it has a quintessential selfie tourist trap, the barf-worthy Fairytale Village.

But, as much as those things irk me, and they do, don’t let it stop you from heading out there just once. It’s an interesting and quirky place. There is a different feel to the area, in no small part due to the different smells and different building styles. There are many restaurants and spots to buy a snack. We found a dim sum restaurant that squelched some cravings I’d been having for weeks. It’s also the birthplace of the ridiculously popular Chinese-Korean dish, Jjajangmyeong. After eating, you can wander around and find a beautiful cafe, like one we found that doubled as a gallery.

TLDR: A Brief History

The history of the area is…interesting. When Incheon Port opened in 1883 a small settlement of Chinese people grew. The population has remained small for 100 years but the Wikipedia page states 50,000 people of 2nd or 3rd generations live there now. As with many of the touristy areas in Korea, this was once a slum, but was picked up by the scruff of its neck and dusted off and polished up to attract more Chinese to vacation on the sunny peninsula. And, of course, it also hoped to lure new Chinese investors.

But, many ethnically Chinese Koreans, who had been born in the country had already left when it was declared “Chinatown” about a decade ago. The reason? Well, racism. The Chinese complained that Korean’s attitude toward them kept them from getting better paying office jobs and forced them into lower paying ones, like restaurant owners or unfair policies against allowing them to be full citizens. Many had already vacated and left only a meager population behind. With the resurgence of this area, however, many seem to have come back.

A NY Times article from 10 years ago states that only about half that number, about 26,000, Chinese actually lived in Korea. So it seems this new, slightly inorganic Chinatown is working to bring more Chinese to Korea. (Until THAAD happened, that is.)

You can read up on Chinatown more before going:

No Real Chinatown in South Korea

South Korea’s Main Chinatown Lacks only Chinese

Incheon’s 100 Years of Chinese Diaspora

The Dramatic Entrance

In case your baby needs one.

Terrific balconies.

Dim sum friends

I ate that.

One of my top five cafe experiences. I love this cafe/gallery with all my heart and want to live there for good.

The destination is best enjoyed early and on a beautiful day so you can get clear views. As I mentioned, it’s a tourist hub, so it gets busy. Plan accordingly. There are definitely noteworthy things to see and eat, so I do recommend it. Just once, for the dim sum, cafes and sun.

As always, people live there, so be cool. Don’t be that loud and obnoxious tourist.

Address: Seollin-dong / Bukseong-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon
인천 중구 선린동 , 북성동 일대

To get there by subway: Incheon Station (Seoul Subway Line 1), Exit 3.
The entrance to Incheon Chinatown is directly across the street.

Cost: FREE

Website (Korean Only ): http://www.ichinatown.or.kr/

Kyoto Food Collection

Published by crystal @unepeach

After taking a healthy hiatus from blogging, I’ve returned ever so gently with a blog about food. I took a jaunt over to Japan for Christmas this year and ate some amazing things.

I travel to eat in a new location. You too? We are probably very cool.

Just like you, I spend more time researching food and restaurants than possibly anything else before a vacation. I will gladly leave a monument early to get to a restaurant rated well on Tripadvisor. You can learn a world of things with just a picture of food. So I spent a good deal of my very precious time usually reserved for rewatching 30 Rock to research all the amazing food I could shove in my mouth in Kyoto.

The city of Kyoto is breathtaking. It looks like a fairy tale, it’s immaculate and people have manners. I felt like it was a world away from the rushed and stressed life I sometimes live here in Seoul (🖤 you Seoul) although it’s only a 2 hour plane ride away. At different points I would just stop taking pictures because I didn’t feel like they reflected the unbridled calm I found in the city.

Just like everyone who steps foot in Kyoto, I crushed hard.

But, food pictures, that’s another story. I can take food pics and even ugly food can be mouthwatering… I have liked a lot of ugly pictures of food on Instagram because I thought, “One day…I’m gonna eat that.”

Introducing:

I Ate That; the Kyoto Food Collection

First up, my cooking class! We were taught by a very gentle Japanese woman how to make Kyoto style Chicken Terriyaki. It sounds funny, but I’ve looked up recipes before that were very complicated. This one is easy and gave me confidence that I can make it easily. And there were the add ons, we made a carrot and radish salad and miso soup from scratch.

Post with recipe to come soon!

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The final results.

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This is actually the first real meal we had in Kyoto. (Full disclosure, we had a train station meal in a diner full of smokers and I scarfed a sandwich at Starbucks like I’d never eaten before, but this was the first real meal.)

In a box full of smaller boxes, we found ourselves face to face with many little Japanese delights. It was a wonderful way to introduce ourselves to the food Kyoto had to offer. The rice itself was quite interesting. I believe it’s called Oyakodon, where the egg, chicken and scallion are placed on stop of steaming rice.

This may have been the best food I ate in Kyoto and some idiot forgot her camera. It was the first day…that’s my excuse. Ippudo Ramen was recommended in Lonely Planet and I was so grateful about it’s close proximity to our hotel.

I am not exaggerating when I say you need this oily mess in your life at least once. We ordered the most basic ramen and gyoza, dumplings. And “basic” means life changing, not in the way cool people use it.

This hot spot was also found in Lonely Planet, Cafe Independants. I believe you can find it under the section “This place is too cool for you, Crystal. Subsection: you used the phrase ‘hot spot’,”. It’s a basement level hideaway that looks like many government conspiracies were hatched at the wooden tables. It’s oh so French.

This is also where I took perhaps the worst picture of spaghetti that has ever been taken. Must have been hungry. It looks like one of Martha’s.

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I saw this food on an episode of Eat Your Kimchi and wanted it to be a part of my life. This is Yasube in Ponto cho and they make Okonomiyaki, which is a savory Japanese pancake grilled either at your table, or by some very cute ladies in the kitchen. Everything about this is excellent.

This was one of my favorites. Wish I had time to go back and ~~eat all of them~~ try some more. Until next time, my love!

We were starving the day I found this mapo tofu in a diner near Kyoto station. By the time we ate I was suffering from debilitating hangriness. It was effecting my personal life on a large scale.

Luckily, you can’t go wrong with this hearty dish and a side of fried chicken. The “side” was fried chicken. Be still my stomach.

Of course…a little sushi.

I just google-mapped this place when we finally decided to have sushi one night. It had all the elements I needed: it was close to the hotel, it was fairly well rated, it had raw fish, it was in Japan.

I would not say it was mind blowing, but it is solid. It has a great view of the river as well and the staff were very patient. We had several different kinds, and due to poor memory and getting older, I can only remember that I ordered quite a bit of salmon.

Sushi Tetsu Pontocho had a lot of goodies and a really nice atmosphere. I highly recommend the eel.

Another meal on our first day out. After eating a luscious bowl of ramen, the next logical step was to get some Christmas fried chicken, street food style. We stopped at Torikara, a chain of fresh and juicy fried chicken with a multitude of dipping sauces.

There was always a line for this place, so you know they’re doing something special in that little place.

There was more food, to be sure, but these are the highlights of our Kyoto food experience.

To close, I’ll say this: Remember that time on 30 Rock when Jenna gained a paltry amount of weight and they had to do all these fat jokes about her and she ended up screaming, “ME WANT FOOD!” throughout the episode?

That’s exactly how I feel on vacation. And I loved getting to know Kyoto in the most delicious way, its food.

Please visit soon! Likes and follows are loved! 🖤

Guilty Pleasure | southern american in itaewon

Published by crystal @unepeach

This year I decided to stop using the term guilty pleasure. I figured I’m at an age that I shouldn’t feel guilty if I want to indulge, so I don’t anymore. But, I won’t hold that against this Southern American style restaurant in Itaewon who took on the name so cleverly and basks in the warm glow of fat, cream and cheese.

Guilty Pleasure is a basement level restaurant in one of the back alleys of Itaewon. It’s become a class act staple of good brunch spots and after one visit, I get the hype. It’s cozy and dark and a perfect place to grab a meal with a little mood. Sure the name sounds like a house of ill repute, but you will only find great food here.

What I mainly took away from GP (i.e. what I daydreamed about the rest of the day): all the good stuff on the breakfast plate we ordered was homemade. The biscuits-homemade. The compote-homemade. Even the sausage was homemade. It’s a small portion compared to something you would get back in the states, but the taste was love-real love -Mary J. Blige style.*

Sometimes you forget how much you miss things until you eat it again. It’s a homey, cuddly, Christmas socks and hot cocoa feeling. And that alone will keep you coming back.

Cocktail time

Bruno is a real dog and adorable mascot.

Only Itaewon

Guilty Pleasure Brunch Platter: Full of homemade grease and wonder.

Homemade buttery biscuits over some well flavored gravy.

I had some reservations about their Croque Madame. If you’ve ever stepped foot inside a Paris Baguette, you understand. I wondered if it would simply be sopping in cheese with little to no taste. Would be it dusted in sugar for some ungodly reason? Would it be just plain gross and disappoint me on a deeply personal level?

With all these concerns, it’s a wonder I ordered it at all.

Rest assured, it was tres fantastique. They didn’t overcheese it. They didn’t sugar it. They slathered it with a tangy mustard that worked so perfectly with the richness of the bread and cheese. It was love.

If you still have guilty feelings about eating decadent brunches, then …more for me!

#moreforme #allthehomemadebiscuits #downhomelove

* Thank you, Amy Poehler. All you gals need to watch Spring Breakdown. Like yesterday.

Guilty Pleasure

Address: 서울특별시 용산구 이태원로20길 2-10, Seoul, South Korea

Phone: 02-794-4332

Hours per Facebook:

Monday: closed

Tuesday – Thursday: 6pm-12am

Friday: 6pm-1am

Saturday-Sunday: 12pm-3pm then 6pm-1pm(12am Sun)

Winter Vacation!

Published by crystal @unepeach

It’s the most wonderful time of the year…to travel!

Actually, I’m not sure if it’s the most wonderful, but I am having winter dreams about this one…Kyoto. I’ve saved up all my yearly stress for this holiday vacation and now it’s Crystal-time!

The history.

The architecture.

The food.

I can’t wait to walk aimlessly around for seven days, landing in coffee shops and stationery stores (oh, the money I will spend). I will take loads of pictures of all the touristy things and then try to snap every Christmas in Kyoto-y thing I can find. If I see a geisha posing near a Christmas tree I may pass out.

To organize my thoughts and enthusiasm, I’ve made my ideas list below.

christmas-in